Tag: Displaying Artwork

Crafting felted artworks presents a stimulating challenge. However, the intricacies of preparing art for display can pose an even more significant challenge. How do you figure out how to hang or present your creations? This article by guild member Lorna Cady will help explain some issues to keep in mind.

By Lorna Cady

Notes on Exhibiting for Optimal Effect

Hanging

Most pieces in Feltmakers Ireland’s annual exhibition will be hung. The Phoenix Park Visitor Centre walls are made from attractive natural-coloured stone. Near the top of the gallery’s walls, there are wire devices with hooks suspended from a curtain rail. Exhibits can be attached at suitable intervals from this.

Please ensure your piece has some form of secure hanging loop or other device that will hold the weight of the piece throughout the exhibition.

a] Size
To ensure we can hang as many pieces as possible (the typical display method), please keep the width of your artwork, including the frame, within 60cm. This will allow more work to be shown rather than a few large pieces. There is no reasonable limit on height, although any pieces more than the room’s height (about 3 metres) could be logistically challenging to install! Of course, the shape of your piece need not be square or rectangular.

b] ‘Flatness’ of exhibit – or not
Often, felted creations are flat, like paintings made from wool; however, they may be three-dimensional – with bumps and protrusions. Both types of work can be hung successfully.

Presenting without a frame

Many artworks are not framed—some are kept in shape with battens 1″ x 1″, e.g., in a square behind the felted item. The battens may be nailed in place with small panel pins. A hook can be attached to the top batten for hanging. Alternatively, firm calico fabric, just a tiny bit smaller than the piece, can be hand-stitched to the piece. Then, the battens can be glued to the calico – e.g. with strong spray glue. Another option is to use iron-on, double-sided, adhesive Bondaweb to connect your project to a backing fabric. Again, a hook should be attached. {Please do not use spray glue directly on your felted textile as it may damage it.}

Framing

a] Choice of frame
In general, frames should be a bit larger than the piece to allow for a bit of a border and not have the actual edge of the felted piece squashed under the ‘rebate’ of the frame. Some people may have equipment at home, e.g., a mitre saw, to make a frame or order a suitable one from a professional framer. There are many ready-made frames in different sizes on the market or online. [One word of warning – in previous years of our exhibition, members have submitted pieces in IKEA frames, some of which sadly fell apart when hung up. It is perhaps best to avoid this brand].

The first piece pictured above, by Claire Merry, has a box-style frame from Blue Ribbon Art Supplies and Framing. Member Caoimhe Tuthill recommends Strand Framing for her framing needs.

If you want to frame your piece with glass [see below] – and the work is not entirely flat – a ‘box frame’ can be used. These are constructed with a box effect where the side panels are about 2-3cm deep – the glass is held at the front by various means, and the piece can be attached to the backing panel. It allows for a limited depth 3D effect, e.g. a flower, to be positioned without being squashed by the glass. You will see what they are if you Google the phrase ‘box frames’. They can be purchased from various places – including IKEA, but again, there may be issues with the stability of the frames from there]!!

You can enhance the frame by painting/staining/varnishing it in a matching or contrasting colour to your piece. Similarly, if you have a slightly larger frame with a backing card to which your piece is fixed, you can choose a colour to complement both the piece and the frame.

b] Glass – or not
The advantage of glass is that it protects your piece. The disadvantage is that when photographed, light may be reflected onto it—by flash, sunlight from the windows, or even overhead lights. Glass can spoil the appearance in photos, both when you initially submit your piece and if visitors to the exhibition want to photograph it.

One solution to problems with ordinary reflective glass is photographing your piece without glass.

The other possibility is to get non-reflective glass, which is available from most glaziers who do picture frame glass. If you take your frame along, they could cut it to size for you. It can be more expensive than standard glass and varies in price from place to place.

Some ready-made frames come with ‘plexiglass’, which is used because it won’t break if the frame falls. If you have a frame made of this material, you might find it is less reflective than ordinary glass.

If using glass of any type, always ensure the piece is COMPLETELY dry if it has been wet felted. It is best to not even to breathe heavily on the felt – residual moisture could be trapped under the glass and cause the felted piece to GO MOULDY!

c] Internal illumination of the exhibit
The amount of natural light in the Phoenix Park Visitors’ Centre is good. Plus, there are ceiling lights.

It may be that an artist would like to illuminate their work from behind, e.g., in a box frame, if the finished effect was lacy in appearance and would benefit from this. In the last couple of years, no one has submitted a piece like this, but here are some points to consider: It is best to use a box frame so that the lighting device can be hidden behind the felt piece. An LED device should be used [rather than a ‘normal’ bulb] as this would not heat up – much safer! Also, an LED with mini batteries would not need to be plugged into a power socket – there may not be one conveniently located within reach, and there would be no problems with trailing wires. The LED unit should be totally out of sight behind the felted piece. The ‘lit’ exhibit could be hung or placed on a plinth. {Editor’s note: There are few electrical outlets in the gallery}.

Artwork which will not be hung on walls

Some pieces must be displayed using methods other than wall mounting to showcase their qualities. Sculptures and wearables are examples of these types of work.

a] 3D items not suitable to hang, e.g., Sculptures. Several plinths will be available in the gallery, upon which three-dimensional items can be placed.

b] Wraps, jackets or coats are usually best displayed on a dressmaker’s dummy. If you do not have one, ask the committee, as it may be possible to borrow one.

c] Hats are best displayed on a stand – either set on a table, plinth or on a free-standing armature. Again, it may be possible to borrow one from the committee or other guild members.

d] Lastly, two or 3D felt installations can be hung from the ceiling – allowing space.

The deadline for submitting your application is the 19th of April.

Editor’s Note: The photographs shared above come from the Guild’s two past exhibitions, ‘Bountiful’ from 2023 and ‘Building Bridges’ from 2022.

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